Back in the winter of 2020, I had planned and booked a summer trip to Croatia that never happened due to Covid. Like many that had to cancel travel plans, I took it hard and wondered if we’d ever be able to travel again. Fortunately, international travel opened back up in the summer of 2022 and we enjoyed a mostly outdoor trip walking the Camino Ingles. After walking the Camino Ingles, I had my sights set back on Croatia, and started planning early for a summer 2023 roadtrip. After a few months of planning and lots of excitement, we finally made our trip to Croatia and the Balkans a reality!
For our journey this year, we once again flew through Dublin before connecting with our flight to Croatia. We’ve had really good luck on our last few trips flying major carriers from LAX to Dublin for very low rates and then relying on RyanAir and EasyJet for the final legs of travel. Unlike last year, we had a long layover in Dublin. We made the most of the 8 hour gap with a visit to Malahide Castle and a wonderful lunch in front of the old pier at Malahide beach.
Our original plan had us flying from Dublin to Zagreb, but RyanAir cancelled our flight last minute due to construction at the Zagreb airport. They were able to get us into Split, but to stay on track with our itinerary, we had to start our first day in Croatia with a 3 hour drive between Split in Zagreb. Julia and Owen got to sleep on the drive, and I really enjoyed the beautiful new highway system. Upon arrival in Zagreb, we had a nice lunch and embarked on a self-guided walking tour of the city.
My son making friends with local cats and dogs is one thing that has been a staple of every trip he’s taken. It took us all of a few hours in Croatia before he found a little cat sanctuary in the center of Zagreb.
After we had adjusted to the new timezone in Zagreb and slept off our jetlag, we took a day trip into Slovenia to visit Lake Bled. Nestled in the heart of the Julian Alps, Lake Bled is a very popular spot for Balkan road-trippers. If you’ve spent anytime on social media over the past few years, you’re sure to have seen pictures and videos of the picturesque island in the center of the lake and the medieval castle that sits on the lake’s shoreline.
We paid for a seat on a handmade pletna boat that was oared by a guy who provided a nice overview of the lake and history of the area. The waters were pleasant and calm, but we could tell by the skies above that wet weather would be joining us in the hours ahead.
Our boat captain and guide gave us an hour to explore the island, visit the church, eat ice cream, and browse the gift shops. We also walked a brief trail that traces the circumference of the island. That walk made us want to dive deeper into the stories we were hearing about hiking paths and pilgrimage routes that brought walkers to Lake Bled. I’m sure we’ll be revisiting this area sometime in the future to dive deeper into the forest paths.
After enjoying our time on the island, the skies opened up with a little rain. We decided it was a good time to get lunch and hunkered down at a pizza place to refuel and wait out the weather. The rain didn’t let up, but we were feeling great after lunch and decided to drive up to Bled Castle for a little more exploration. Perched atop a steep cliff overlooking the lake, Bled Castle boasts a storied history tracing back over a thousand years. Originally built in the 11th century, the castle has served as a medieval fortress, a feudal residence, and even a defense against Ottoman invasions. Its well-preserved walls, museum exhibits, and panoramic views offer a captivating glimpse into the region’s past and make it a must-visit destination for history enthusiasts and travelers alike.
One of our favorite moments at Bled Castle was exploring the print shop. Owen got to pick out paper, his letter stamps, and then crank the press to create a take-home souvenir.
On our drive back to Zagreb from Lake Bled the weather started to clear and we decided to stop in Ljubljana to walk around, get some food, and stretch our legs. The stop turned out to be a bit of a soft mistake though, because I quickly felt regret for not spending more time in the city! One of the most difficult parts of booking a two week vacation is deciding where to go and what to see. We enjoyed our time in Ljubljana, but will have to come back another time to do the city justice.
