Peak Pursuits: Women Forging Bonds on an Alpine Mission – GWC Mag

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Three determined women summit Piz Palü in the Swiss Alps, forging bonds of empathy and empowerment.
Article sponsored by Ortovox.
Words :: Kara-Leah Grant // Photos :: Max Draeger

It began when three women connected at work. A conversation was had. An idea was floated. Enthusiasm was expressed. And that was that.

Those three women—Tanja Gutheil, a communications manager at Ortovox, Lena Koller, training to become a mountain guide, and Marlies Czerny a freelance author and mountaineer who has climbed every 4000-metre peak in the Alps—were heading into the high alpine, together. A place that Tanja had never been before.

Peak Pursuits: Women Forging Bonds on an Alpine Mission – GWC Mag
from left to right: marlies, tanJa and lena.

The peak? Piz Palü in Switzerland, its east pillar. It’s new territory for all three women, yet met their varied levels of experience. Marlies had had the peak in mind for years. It may not be a 4000-metre peak, or super challenging, but it’s magical and beautiful and that can matter just as much. The right combination of teammates hadn’t coalesced until now. While Marlies usually climbs with her husband-to-be, Andi, she loves venturing out in different configurations as well.

“When I get together with other partners, I love seeing their sparkling eyes, and feeling a true passion for mountaineering and respect for mother nature,” says Marlies. “When I first started climbing, I didn’t care who I climbed with. The goal was above all! But things quickly changed when I realized how important it is to rope up with the right person. A rope is one of the greatest signs of trust you can give! Nowadays, my partner is much more important to me than a prominent peak or a difficulty level itself.”

DB 7862 HIGH ALPINE S24 Palu MaxDraeger MedRes

“Things quickly changed when I realized how important it is to rope up with the right person. A rope is one of the greatest signs of trust you can give.”

Despite never having climbed with Tanja or Lena before, Marlies found there was a level of connection between the three women that meant sometimes verbal communication wasn’t needed—it was eye contact, seeing each other and feeling each other that revealed much that needed to be known. “It is special climbing with all women because there’s a level of…” Marlies pauses, and considers. It’s a delicate topic because gender doesn’t matter in the mountains—the weather and the conditions treat everybody the same. Yet… Marlies smiles and continues, “There’s a level of empathy. You just feel it…”


On the east pillar of Piz Palü—a glacial palace almost 3900 metres high—that level of empathy meant that the three women with varying degrees of experience were able to tackle the challenge of high altitude climbing with ease, undeterred by the inclement weather on their chosen day.

DB 7840 HIGH ALPINE S24 Palu MaxDraeger MedRes

On high alpine routes like this, there are no visual markings—no signposts, no track. It’s about following instinct and a few lines in an alpine guidebook. Lena and Marlies took turns leading, and encouraging Tanja as she hit up against her limits, first at the initial belay station where the team is confronted with vertical steps and ice-cold granite, and later at the steep rock finale which requires ice screws.

“I gulped at that moment,” admits Tanja. “It was a little steeper than expected.” Tanja leaned into the challenge, buoyed by the other women and their example. “You’re all a kind of role model for each other and that’s encouraging and inspiring,” says Lena.

DB 8480 HIGH ALPINE S24 Palu MaxDraeger MedRes

On that August day, the route is blasted by a bitterly cold northwesterly wind and hugged by clouds. The women witness another team turn back before summiting, but they feel capable and clear about going all the way. Their kit helps—something that Marlies describes as “onion dressing.” “I love my different layers from Ortovox. When the weather suddenly changes, it’s absolutely necessary to rely on warmth and functional clothing—the insulation and hardshell combination,” she says. “I know this works and that’s why we could move forward without a doubt.”

Great gear supports their collective decision-making: the team benefits from Marlies’ experience, Lena’s training and Tanja’s willingness to meet challenges. The weather might be inclement, but they are enjoying themselves and the experience. “I’m very happy that we pushed through it,” Lena says. “It shows me that alpine tours don’t always need ideal conditions to be perfect.”

DB 8098 HIGH ALPINE S24 Palu MaxDraeger MedRes

They reached the summit and celebrated with hugs, Haribo gummies and homemade banana bread. The perfection of that moment is revealed in the days and weeks after the summit when Marlies bumps into Tanja and discovers that the rookie climber is on fire for her next adventure. Something has been lit up inside of her. Tanja is planning to do a course and get into more climbing.

DB 7358 HIGH ALPINE S24 Palu MaxDraeger MedRes

Marlies shines when she shares Tanja’s experience. Her joy that another woman has been lit up by the mountains is palpable. “I think a woman can light a bigger fire in another woman than a man could,” says Marlies. “There’s something about a woman seeing that I can do it well—and therefore so can she.”

That chance conversation among work colleagues has lit another fire, and another woman has discovered the magic of the mountains.


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